Thalia Zedek Tour Report #6

Thursday, October 21, Brescia, Italy. Venue: FreeMuzik.

Our first show on our own for this tour. Giant Sand heads north, we go south. Our hotel and the venue are both on the very edge of town... nothing around except car dealerships and a giant grocery store that is clearly modelled after Wal-Mart. I got stopped by a cowboy-boot-wearing security guard who looked like the romance novel cover-model Fabio. He asks to look through my shoulder bag, and tells me in Italian that I'm supposed to leave my bag in the lockers in the front of the store. I know this because of a long pantomime process like the game "charades". He was very macho, but polite.

We are met at the hotel before the show by Nicola, from DNA Concerti, our Italian booking agency. He has with him our vehicle (a big car) and backline (amplifiers and drums).

Nicola tells me that people think he looks like "Sideshow Bob" from the Simpsons. I was just about to tell him that, myself.

The opening band is local to Brescia, and very inspired by Nick Cave and Neil Young. They were really good and very friendly... the singer, Marco, is a good guy. The drummer looks like the Croatian Doctor Kovac from the TV show "ER". The guitar player's name means "Little Shadow" (Ombretta).

We play for almost an hour and a half, including an encore. Previously, as an opening band for Giant Sand, we were doing 45 minute sets.



Friday, October 22, Turin (Torino). Venue: Hiroshima.

First of all, I must ask: why should a place called 'Torino' have its name changed to 'Turin' for foreigners? It's confusing for navigation if a traveller is unaware that Firenze is the local name for Florence (in English)

Another example:
Deutschland (local name)
Germany (English name)
Allemagne (French name)
Germania (Italian name)

We drive with Nicola to Milan to change Daniel's drums to a smaller vintage kit, more to his style. The car would have been too small, and we almost had to exchange it for a van, but Lorenzo at Mokke's Backline rental service was kind enough to let us leave a car seat and extra drum parts at his place.

Mokke's: www.mokkes.it

Nicola stays in Milan and I drive the band to Torino (Turin). Our directions are not very clear, and Italy's road signs are not very clear, and the sky is not very clear, and our heads aren't very clear from not enough sleep. Our navigation style is best described as a "trial-and-error panic committee". I wonder if using a "Magic 8-Ball" toy would be a better way to go. Ask the 8-ball a question, shake it, and read the answer in a little window at the bottom of the ball.

Question: "Should we take this exit off the Tangenziale?"

Answer: "Reply hazy, ask again later", or "My sources say No"

We get a little lost and ask directions at a gas station, which is another game of pantomime charades, and we end up drawing a map on my hand.

Tonight (and for 3 shows total) we are the opening band for a large group called "Sophia" - very grand rock, with a fancy string section.

Thalia Zedek Tour Report #5

Saturday, October 16, Geislingen, Germany. Venue: Ratschenmuhle im Schlachthof www.raetsche.de

We are all warmly received by Joe (Joachim?), who loves to talk politics, especially leftist politics, and Fred and Rosalia, parents of friends Fabrizio & Flavio (Fab & Flav) - who are musicians with a band called the Go Lucky's. We all go for a nice dinner, and later, the show is totally crowded. The bar sold out of beer two times through the night. Someone said it was the biggest show they had ever seen there.


Sunday, October 17, 2004, Munich, Germany. Venue: Hansa 39

Another packed show.

It's Sunday... a completely lazy day or all. I day-dreamed about staying in a chair until the moment we had to play, then hitting the stage for the gig, then going straight back to the chair.

Emma from Australia was there. She hopes to get the Thalia Zedek band to play in Australia sometime.


Monday, October 18, Zurich, Switzerland. Venue: el Lokal. www.ellokal.ch

El Lokal is owned by Viktor, who is a retired football (soccer) player who now runs a successful cafe & music venue. El Lokal makes its own beer, which is legendary.

I've played at el Lokal, and it's previous location (known as "el International") 4 or 5 times with Willard Grant Conspiracy and Thalia Zedek, and it has always been great - totally packed until you can barely move, with a small stage that is like an island... performers have to swim through the people to get to it, and then they are stuck there.

It is the final night of Angelika & Reiner's music vacation. Reiner wore his special hippie pants.

After the show, when the people leave, it became a party for the band, and a dance-fest, with Viktor and the friendly and beautiful people of el Lokal.

Snake (Thoger) tells us a story of how he has broken his nose 3 times through the years while dancing. He is a busy boy.

After the venue closes, Viktor joins us on the bus for talking and a Marx Brothers film (just the piano performance sections).



Tuesday, October 19th, Geneva, Switzerland. Venue: PTR / Usine.

Last time we were here, someone broke into the van of our friend Tara Jane O'Neil, and this time, two people were caught trying to get into the tour bus... maybe not the best neighborhood, but it's a nice venue - a big, black, rock & roll hall.

Friend David Schindler was in attendance, who is a music promoter & booking agent... he reminds me of an indie-rock Oscar Wilde, with a giant brain and smooth tongue for talk.

Also present was "Good" Thalia, and her brother Massimo.
"Bad" Thalia (Zedek) called Massimo a "private dick on the take" because he's a private investigator. I hope I haven't "blown his cover" (secret code talk for "revealed his identity").

The show was not as well attended as the others on the tour, but it felt good and intimate. It is our last show with Giant Sand. Oddly enough, we sold the most amount of records at this show with the least amount of people.

Ours was one of my favorite performances of the TZ band... i felt free and able to interpret my viola parts loosely and in new ways.

I was invited to sit in with Giant Sand for a couple of songs. "Poor Wayfarin' Stranger" which, as far as I know, is a traditional cowboy song, and also a new G.S. song still in development, the name of which I forget, but something like "Romance of Travelling" or "Revenge of Travel" (?) - I wrote the title on my hand, but it has washed off by now.

The night ended with a lot of hugs and talk of the future.

Thus ends what has been referred to as "The Spider Tour" because of a large amount of spider imagery and actual spider and web sightings along the way. We'll wait & see what the Thalia Italia tour gets for a nick-name.


Today is my brother Stephen's birthday, and I hereby send him good wishes.

Thalia Zedek Tour Report #4

Wednesday, October13: Luzern, Switzerland

Day off for both bands. I took a walk around the water of the lake, and the old part of town, here in the Swiss Alps. Some of the other folks took off on a train, or found a hotel for the day... about half will stay on the bus and save money on hotel cost.
I spent the evening with G.S. tour manager Steve on the bus for some quality time, watching trashy catastrophic films, like "Twister" on the VCR.

In town, I saw a rat for the first time on this trip, which reminded me of home, where there is a huge city-rat problem in my yard. Funny what reminds me of home.

Thursday, October14, Luzern, Switzerland. Venue: BOA Kulturzentrum.

During the Thalia Z show, the guitar amplifier was sounding strange and defective, throwing us off a little, and Giant Sand had a few sound problems, too - but they turned it to their advantage with a rambling and adventurous jazzy space-jam mixed with songs. Guitar-guy Anders did his best with a borrowed amp, and Sound-guy Anders was tearing his young hair out in frustration, but the crowd loved it. Excellent piano improvisation by Mr. Howe Gelb.

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Friday, October 15th, Rubigen, Switzerland (near Bern). Venue: Muhle Hunziken.

This venue is special - it is an old wind mill and is full of strange sculptures, circus ride rockets, and stuffed monkeys. The first floor with the stage looks up through 2 or 3 floors of balconies with crazy angles.

The show is recorded by a professional TV crew for Swiss television show called "Weekend Music". 6 cameras from every angle were focused on the bands.

A rockin' show for Thalia Z and Band, and Giant Sand seems quite at home with the TV cameras... Howe starts playing from an upper level balcony with his wireless remote signal guitar... his side of the stage is empty, and for a few minutes the TV crew can't find him. - He's tricky.

After the show, many of us go to the nearby cow-field to see a sky full of bright stars... we are at a high altitude on a clear night, so it is a rare sight for most of us who live in cities.

Thalia Zedek Tour Report #3

This tour diary is mainly something for me to do to keep busy, and probably will be read only by a few friends and family, and the occasional web-searcher for Giant Sand or Thalia Zedek... Here's what's been going on for the last 6 days:


Thursday, October 7. Dresden, Germany. venue: Star-Club.

It could be my imagination, but it seems like there has been huge growth and modernization in some of the former East German cities like Dresden. (politically, East/West, the Wall...)
I've been to the Star Club 4 times since 1998, I think.
Mathias the Chef once again quietly makes us welcome and cooks fine food for all.
My big walk-around-town adventure for the day ended when an elderly woman with a cane fell down on the trolley tracks in the street in traffic. I had to pick her up and help her walk across the street where some locals could talk to her in German and make sure she was OK.
A full club for the show. Sold a few records to a biker dude... Thalia thought he looked so tough, but seemed so shy that maybe he rides a moped instead of a Harley?

Friday, October 8. Halle, Germany. venue: Objekt 5

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Days go by faster when I don't look at the calendar or the map. It's almost a game to wake up in a new place the next day and not even notice getting there, thanks to the able bus-driving of Scott.
Warm, intimate club. I've been here with Willard Grant Conspiracy before. A friendly man named Ulli showed us around a bit.
The club was packed with people like sardines... too tight for people to get to the record sales table.
Right up front at the stage were a bunch of friends who screamed and danced at midnight for a birthday girl in the group.
The dreaded disco started immediately after the show... Others in the group don't hold disco in such low regard as I, and Giant Sand bass player Thoger bumps heads with the birthday girl and knocks himself out. He has been wearing a snake-skin print suit. Snakes aren't supposed to stand up and dance.

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Saturday, October 9. Duisburg, Germany. venue: Hundertmeister.

I did laundry in the sink.
Another crowded show. Smokey.
Friends Anjelika and Reiner are on a music vacation, following Giant Sand (and Thalia Zedek, of course) and recording shows.

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Sunday, Octber 10. Haarlem, Netherlands. venue: Patronaat. Roots of Heaven Festival.

Day off for Thalia Zedek band. We are NOT "Roots Music".
I spend the day with my friend Kim and try to figure out why duck calls don't echo.
Somebody at the festival disappeared in a canal because the algae and leaves on the water looked like dry ground, but thankfully, resurfaced and was able to take a shower in the venue.


Monday, October 11. Hamburg, Germany. venue: Fabrik

An amazing building. A former factory.
Sunny the sound technician was fun and friendly. I've met him before.
The neighborhood of the Fabrik venue has a falafel shop that is famous for its magic falafel.
During the Thalia show, I broke a viola string. usually I can change fast, but I grabbed the wrong string and had to try it twice.
Thalia's friend Moni takes pictures and wises off in German on Thalia's behalf to people buying records.

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Tuesday, October 12. Darmstadt, Germany. venue: Centralstation.

Hometown of friend Frank, from Spanish band Manta Ray.
I have the dreaded "Bus Cold" which has passed through just about everybody on the tour bus. I'm temporarily hibernating in my coffin-like bunk.

Thalia Zedek Tour Report #2

Tilburg - 013:

Large, modern music venue, all black and shiny, and metallic... great coffee. The other music hall in the building had a band called "Papa Roach" playing - a loud metal-jam band or something, with two tour buses and a lot of young skate-punk kids wearing black, and chains, all hanging around trying to get into the bus area... that never happens to the Thalia Zedek band, that's for sure. Good shows for both bands - Howe claims it was the "tightest" show he's ever been a part of, in Giant Sand or any other band. "Tight" is musical technical jargon for "well-played, with an unspoken and energetic synchronicity between the players".

Gent - Handelsbeurs:

Gent is a beautiful city.
Many canals and ancient buildings, lots of cathedrals and a belfrey or two. Not as touristy as Brussels.
Two great places to hang out are the dark, brown & amber-colored jazz bar called Damberg, and a place called the Pink Flamingo, which has red walls, sad velvet clown and puppy paintings, and sculptural wall art made from toys and 1950s to 1970s popular culture stuff. It would be very comfortable if it was transplanted to the lower east side of Manhattan, NYC.
The venue was a beautiful old music hall next to the Opera House in a main public square, cobble-stoned, with a bandstand.

Dusseldorf - Zakk:

Another public multi-use venue... dedicated staff, excellent breakfast... a piano tuner came to work on the piano that Howe would use for the show. He broke a string, and had no spare, but finished tuning all the other strings and then politely and quietly disappeared. The music room is a strange shape and the speakers are set up in an unusual way, and we think it made the sound quality suffer, but the show was charged and fun, and both bands have been selling a lot of records.
Stefan from Normal Records was in attendance, and we met and talked for a long time. He just put out a Thalia Zedek record of rare live recordings and radio performances on his music series called "return to Sender". The artwork for the series has a postal theme with postage stamps. Ours was found and put together by friend Heather, and isn't a real stamp, but a calling-card stamp for an association of "mail art" where people design unofficial artistic stamps and then use them to mail letters with.

Berlin - Quasimodo

A legendary jazz bar in west Berlin. There were many friends to see the Thalia Zedek band, most of whom live in Berlin, but one named Emma who came from Australia and wins the travel-to-show prize.
It was our best show yet, even with an interuption of a broken guitar string, but Anders from Giant Sand helped by letting Thalia use his guitar for a song while he changed her broken string. Everybody in Giant Sand is fun and friendly. The crowd was very enthusiastic and many were turned away at the door. I think the show should have been in a bigger venue. Some Giant Sand fans missed out.
The Thalia crowd all went to the chic and expensive "Paris Bar" across the street and some stayed and talked until 5:30 in the morning, until the bus had to leave for the next city. Scott is a good bus driver, and practices by day with a Sony Play Station driving game called "Need For Speed".

Thalia Zedek Tour Report #1

September 28th, a long overnight flight to Amsterdam, followed by a day of city walking, among rings of canals and crooked buildings. September 30th, we played at the Paradiso, an old theatre, retro-fitted with modern sound and stage equipment, including hydraulic lifts through the floor and stage. The show was packed. Two old friends of mine were in attendance, while on their honeymoon here. Our first show was a good one, and shows will get better as jet-lag wears off... Giant Sand had a legion of the faithful to fill the room, and there were many Thalia fans as well. Our good friend Maz did our sound, and we caught up on old times. I originally met him from the early days of Willard Grant Conspiracy.

October 1: setting up now for second show in Hasselt, Belgium, in a nowhere of industrial buildings, where the most interesting thing is the moss between the bricks that I'm sitting on, outside in the sun. Getting to know the Giant Sand folks better. Howe (G.S.) has a band made up of handsome and earnest Danish boys. We're having fun trying to pronounce their names.

The show rocks, for both bands... Giant Sand play it loose and get the audience involved.

October 2, a day off for the Thalia Zedek band while Giant Sand play an american roots music festival called "Take Root". I head off to explore Gent's old city, public meat market, and castle area. It's "leather weather" (as in jacket).


xox
DMC